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1: Cheapest Onkyo SKS HT540B
Cheapest Onkyo SKS HT540B
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I bought this speaker to replace an old Panasonic AIOB that the village was the sound of the speakers is clear and obvious, but no subwoofer output in comparison. I run through the Yamaha receiver. I am happy overall, and still find great value for my home entertainment experience.
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BuyingOnkyo SKS-HT540 7.1 Channel Home Theater Speaker System
Extremely Pleased!
The Speakers sound great. That is what is really matters when you are looking for a Speaker set. There are plenty of specs, but I don’t have the time or the inclination to get into it. Setup your speakers where they need to be, get a decent receiver and I have no doubt you will be pleased with these speakers. I have been enjoying the speakers for a month now and have been impressed with their performance in movies, television and music. I will say I paired my Onkyo speakers with an Onkyo receiver.
Outstanding solution for entry-level home theater well worth the price of the ticket!
We were wanting to throw together a sort of “auxiliary” home theater for the kids to give them somewhere to go when they didn’t want to be under Mom & Dad’s elbows (and vice versa!). While certainly we wanted gear that would last and perform well we also had minimal extraneous budget to work with so we feared the available options would be, well, lacking to say the least.
The entire setup includes a Sony Bravia KDL-32L5000 32″ LCD, a Sony DVP-NS77H upconverting DVD player, and the kids’ PS2 which still enjoys regular use. The Bravia LCD was chosen for its connectivity options and the price I found it for just prior to Christmas at our local Wal-Mart. The DVD player was chosen for its solid reviews, Bravia-Sync capability with Sony flatpanel monitors, as well as price; it was scored in a closeout sale locally.
For sound reproduction for the above display equipment the Sony STR-DH800 A/V receiver was chosen for its on-board surround decoding options and the ability to control itself (obviously), the TV, and the DVD player from a single remote while negating the necessity for buying a third-party universal remote control. Price again was a factor as I had a merchandise credit which had been pending for some time with another online retailer and the price I was able to obtain this particular receiver for after deducting that credit was all but irresistible.
And last but certainly not least the Onkyo SKS-HT540 7.1 surround sound speaker package was chosen for its 7.1 channel compatibility with 8 separate channels worth of speakers including the active subwoofer, mostly positive reviews online, and finally (our mantra, if you will) price. It was, hands-down, THE best available option, both locally and online, for under $240/shipped brand-spankin’-new. Though not an up-to-date model the expected level of performance compared to the cost far outweighed the fact of this choice not being the “latest and greatest” thing available. The inclusion of the SKS-HT540 for this setup in conjunction with the above supporting gear allowed us to complete our project well under the target budget even after purchasing all the necessary cabling to tie it all together.
First please let me address a couple of items contained within the negative review prominently displayed when you choose the reviews option for this item. That reviewer claims that the speaker cabinets for each of the front three main speakers (front left, center channel, and front right) are a full five inches shallower than the given dimensions as per Onkyo’s product description. According to the manufacturer’s website each of the large front main speakers have a depth of 7 7/8″. My own measurements indicate a depth of 6 1/4″ not including the baffle on which the speaker’s three separate drivers are mounted or the removable cloth grilles. Including those latter two items gives a measurement of a bit over 7″ deep. Each of these three cabinets, while not the same exact dimensions indicated by the manufacturer, remains of an appropriate size for the type of cabinet used with the specific drivers chosen.
The four surround speakers ARE significantly shallower than three front main speakers. However, the surround units use an acoustic suspension alignment (sealed cabinets) as opposed to the bass reflex alignment (“vented” or “ported” cabinets) utilized by the fronts. Combine that with the fact that the drivers in the surround units are both physically smaller (3 1/8th inch mid-woofer Vs. 5″ mid-woofer) and numerically smaller (single driver Vs. dual-driver) than the front anyone with half a clue about speaker enclosure design knows this makes perfect sense.
Additionally the remark regarding the back panel of the active subwoofer unit displaying a claim of 130w while the product specifications claiming 230 watts of dynamic amplifier output is comparing apples to oranges.
Upon inspection of my own unit I located a specification on the back panel of the subwoofer indicating operating parameters of 120v A/C current @ 60Hz / 140 watts. This labeling is in compliance with Underwriter’s Laboratories’ product listing certification. The 140 watts value has nothing to do with unit output power and is indicative of maximum rated power consumption.
Additionally the 230 watt rating given in the product description IS provided as a “dynamic” output power capability. Anyone with half a clue about audio equipment would understand that in reference to amplifier power the terms dynamic, maximum, and peak are generally interchangeable and are values good for nothing more than marketing. These values are normally in no way equal to the “RMS” or “nominal” output wattage which will be a considerably more accurate representation of the actual real-world output levels the end user could expect to enjoy. While the actual RMS wattage ratings are not provided for some reason by Onkyo the 230 watt claim of dynamic power would lead one to believe the RMS figures are more along the lines of somewhere between 100 and 150 watts. This level of power is perfectly adequate for a 10″ driver and is a fairly standard power level for active subwoofers anywhere near this pricepoint.
“Whew!”
“Having said all of that – how do the blasted things sound?!?”
For the cost involved they sound absolutely fantastic. Please be aware that I’m fairly discriminatory when it comes to audio gear and the equipment used in our main family room is of a very different flavor (and pricepoint) than the item currently being reviewed. After running the receiver’s auto-calibrate feature and then making some further tweaks beyond that I was pleasantly surprised at these Onkyos.
During movie playback effects, dialogue, and soundtrack were faithfully reproduced and located properly. The machine-gun fire beyond Forrest Gump as he is running from the Viet Cong ambush attack was right behind you and the sounds of bullet projectiles ricocheting of off trees is unmistakable. The sounds of things flying apart (cars, military equipment, buildings, etc) during Megatron and Optimus Prime’s final fight in The Transformers are enveloping and somewhat frightening! Perhaps unexpected is a better term here. There is an advantage this Onkyo set has over other sets at (or in many cases significantly above) this price point – the surround speakers, all four of them, are a 2-way design (separate mid-woofer and tweeter) rather than incorporating the single full-range driver configuration that is found in the majority of entry-level surround groups and a surprising percentage of higher-end units!
During music playback the lowest registers of mid-bass did admittedly feel a smidge thin. The bass solo in the live cut of Pink Floyd’s “Another Brick In The Wall, Pt2″ on their double-disc ‘Pulse’ set sounded like it wanted larger drivers reverberating its insistence. The drums in “I Don’t Care Anymore” by Genesis sounded slightly far away. Otherwise I found the set right on the money from one end of the audible spectrum to the other. The highs from the floating tweeters in the front mains were bright without being strained. Midrange vocals sounded true. The lowest octaves being provided by the 10″ sub were accurate and well-blended.
Even with my minor complaints aside at this price I truly do not think there is a better alternative for a true 7.1 system available.
The one possible con is simply this setup’s size. It will require a considerable investment in your space’s real estate in comparison to other ‘compact’ surround options. It isn’t designed to blend in with your decor like a Bose system and these speakers are substantially larger than the speakers commonly found in an entry-level Home Theater In A Box-type set. Please do review the dimensions provided by the manufacturer and know that they are “mostly” accurate so keep that in mind when making a purchase decision. If you want something easy to tuck away in a corner or hide in a bookcase this Onkyo set is not for you. If you do not mind the necessary space sacrifice and having a ‘compact’ surround sound set that will still, without a doubt, get noticed, then please give these some consideration for your budget surround needs.
Review Edit/Add-On: Further Impressions…
After living with the Onkyo SKS-HT540 for a bit now and having had the opportunity to really get the receiver driving them tweaked to what I believe is the best possible setting(s) in place for various modes I’m further impressed by this speaker set.
In my haste to get all this gear set up for the kids so I could get them out of our hair, so to speak, I ran the auto-calibrate in the receiver and made further EQ tweaks to enhance the settings put in place by the auto-processing. I did not, however, delve all that deeply into ALL of the available settings. After digging a bit further into the receiver’s menu structure I located some additional adjustments that needed, well, adjusting. After the necessary tweaks were made these Onkyos sound that much better to us all and seriously has the wife questioning the wisdom in having spent as much as we have on our main family home theater!
A couple of observations – first is the fact that the surrounds on the mid-woofer drivers for the front main and center channel speakers are rubber rather than pressed foam as will be found in most “All-In-One” surround speaker packages in this price-range. This should offer both increased longevity of the speakers overall as well as give the speakers themselves enhanced control over driver excursion when being pushed to extreme volumes if that happens to be your thing. I do not have a peak-to-peak excursion measurement available but simply watching the speakers move with the naked eye would lead one to believe that woofer travel is actually noteworthy for drivers of this size. The amount of air being moved through the rear-firing port would further fuel that opinion.
The second observation brings along with it a word of caution to prospective buyers – these speakers are not particularly efficient. The specs provided by Onkyo indicate a speaker sensitivity for the three front (left/right/center) channel speakers and the four surround speakers to be 86dB and 82dB, respectively. What this means, for those of you whom I am speaking Greek to now, is that these speakers, while rated at 130w maximum input wattage simply will not perform at optimal levels on lower-powered sources. The receiver we’re driving these Onkyos with, as mentioned previously, is a Sony STR-DH800 which is rated at 100w per output channel and this rating is given at full bandwidth output from 20Hz to 20kHz. Be mindful of receivers whose output ratings are given as “XXX watts worth of output @ 1kHz” or some other specific frequency rather than the entire range of average human hearing. Receivers rated in this fashion are (generally) not going to offer the same level of output across the entire range of audible frequencies as it does for the specific frequency used for the rating to begin with.
You’ll also want to ensure that the wattage output per channel falls somewhere in the upper third of the input rating for these speakers.
All in all? My opinion that these Onkyos are a fantastic buy at under $250/shipped has not been dulled whatsoever after using them for awhile – pick these up if your living space allows for these to be included as a part!
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Avic-z110bt Pioneer
Will an AVIC-Z110BT fit in an 05′ Chevy Cavalier?
Will the Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT Double-DIN Navigation/Stereo system fit in an 05′ Chevy Cavalier?
Please be specific:
Will a modification need made to the trim for it to fit and look properly?
– Is there a modified trim piece on the market that I can buy? (Where?)
Will I need another device to keep my system sounds such as the door chimes? (What device?)
Will I need to purchase a special wiring harness? (Which one?)
Are there any other complications that I should be aware of and how might I be able to work around them?
Thanks 
Where can I find a list of everything needed to get this working? Model numbers, places to buy, ect…
It will fit, but you will need a dash install kit for a double din stereo (Metra Electronics Corp. 95-2009), the GMOS-2 Harness (the expensive one with the door chime module), and of course the antenna adapter.
The good part, any Best Buy or Car Toys should have all the part you need.
Acoustic Research Dac
22 Tips to Obtain Better Sound in a High End Audio System
22 Tips to Obtain Better Sound in a High End Audio System
Özhan Atalay
Email: ozhan@atalay.biz Web: http://www.nonamehifi.com
Introduction
Basically accepted thing in audiophile world is that it almost impossible to achieve the best sound by just combining only the best equipments. Much cheaper but properly selected and tweaked system may sound better than its expensive brothers. This is called system synergy in audiophile world. System synergy is not only about combining the best equipments but it is a kind of long and enjoyable way to maximize their performances.
The precautions and principles may be seen absurd and meaningless for someone who does not have solid understanding what the hi-end is.
Within last twenty years, I spent considerable time, money and efforts to achieve best sound (..Or what ever the best is). I wrote a couple of important points from my own perspective. Most of these points may be known by the audiophiles anyway if not implemented. More important, below points consist of my own observations merely. There are so many known different tweaks and techniques. I avoided not including here the points that I did not try and/or the points did not work well with me. I believe below mentioned points will step up someone’s system to a higher level by using the same equipments.
I apologize for my level of English. I am appreciated if someone warns me about the main language mistakes anywhere in the web site.
The only certain truth I learned after twenty years is that “there is no one absolute truth in Hi-End” Most of the truths in High-End can not be proven by scientific measures. Very sensitive human ear hears a lot, interpret, evaluate and decide. In a listening session of three audiophiles, what is probably going to happen is one of the persons will find the bass insufficient, the other may find it so much and excessive, but the system owner will think it is fine, not less, not more. That phenomenon is called “brain reference”. (See for more details) Brain reference is a kind of prejudice comes out of our own system’s timbre and tonality. This phenomenon sometimes causes conflicts with someone who compares better equipment versus his own equipment and may not like the sound of the other in spite the other was clearly better.
Most of the points stipulated below will depend on the capabilities of the system but more important, depend on the experience of audiophile. A poor system will not differentiate the points or less experienced ears may not pick them up either. That’s why some of the points below may not be regarded by everybody. I will be delightful if someone who reads that article picks up one or two points.
1- Listening at Night; Critical listening or equipment testing should be done in the night hours. This rule obviously applies to one who lives in a big city. Non noticeable city noise affects our hearing and we are basically not able to hear what our system delivers to us during the day.
Due to city noise is several times lower in the night, all hidden aspects in hi-end appear in the night and the system delivers its full potential. For more information, please check Noise (see for more details)
2- Heat and Humidity; Humidity and heat have serious influences on sound. Systems can not generate their best sound, power and dynamics in a warm and damp weather. I am not sure why this happens but it happens. There may be two reasons: The damp air is heavier in such circumstances, thus the loudspeakers are not able to pull enough air into the room. Or the loudspeaker materials may soften and behave differently in warm weather. To cool the listening environment prior to listening session eliminates that effect.
3- Darkness; Music should be listened in dark room. Particularly, the loudspeakers and the system should be kept in dark and the original recording venue should be imagined while listening.
The main objective of a good quality hi-end system is to depart from the hardware and to go into the recording environment. Listening music while watching the hardware will physiologically demolish the virtual environment that we intent to be in. The most inconvenient part of a hi-end system is inexistence of visual imaging. The reality sense is so different when participating to a live concert or listening/watching from a DVD player via a surround system.
If the listening environment is not dark, the speakers will be perceived as the sources of the original sound.
4- Finding the Correct Listening Distance; the sound is spread in waves called frequency. The volume of every frequency will be different in connection with the distance from the speakers. In terms of the volume, frequencies will be up and down when the distance is changed. Especially higher mids and treble sections will vary between 20-5 centimetres. Such frequency peaks can be easily recognized by listening.
a – Listen a test CD which contains different test frequencies. For instance start with mono 1000 Hz at the listening chair. Then stand up and walk very slowly through your system. (Preferably with your closed eyes). You will immediately realize that the signal will have ups and downs in volume while you are moving as if somebody was turning on and off the volume control.
b – The main frequency of the music and the one which is closest to human sound is 1000 Hz. 1000 Hz is your starting point. 1000 Hz will be at its peaks so many times in connection with the distance of your listening chair. Find the closest distance to your current listening chair that the 1000 Hz is at peak. The ups and downs in that band should be changed around 50-70 centimetres. This is the best location to hear the middle frequencies but it is not the best location yet to achieve the best frequency spectrum. It is just the starting point.
c – Stick a rope to back wall that may come through your shoulders. Now close your eyes and listen different frequencies such as 300-500-1000-2000-5000-10.000 Hz etc, move top of your body (while sitting) forward and backwards. Mark the peak points of every frequency you listened on the rope. Our aim is to find a particular point that most of the frequencies are at their peaks. If you are not successful and these points are not closer each other, move your speakers 10 cm’s to front (or your listening chair to 10 cm front or rear) and repeat the same exercises till you find a certain point that most of the frequencies are at their peaks.
It is not an easy task, time consuming but free of charge. Once you have the point, you will be very surprised with the improvement of the sound of your existing system.
5- Room Acoustics; Room Acoustics is the most known but the least considered part of Hi-End. A conventional speaker may throw % 40 of the sound directly to listener; rest of the sound comes through the walls by reflections. Reflection means the timing difference of the original signal, hence an additional acoustic which does not exist in the original record. Within such a complexity of reflections, a part of the original signal will come late due to the front wall or ceiling or etc, a part of the original signal produced by the left speaker will come as if coming from the right speaker and vice versa. Such a complex listening environment will demolish the stereo imaging and channel separation.
Some audiophiles are happy with this case due to speakers are seem to be better disappeared and soundstage is wider and deeper. Some producers add additional mid/treble units to the back side of the speakers (dipoles) to emphasize such effects.
One thing should be considered that such reflections do not exist at the original sound. If something is produced by the system/room in addition to the original sound should be named coloration.
If the aim of a good hi-end system is to reproduce the original sound, such reflections should be avoided as much as possible. Especially ribbon and electrostatic speakers will suffer a lot from such reflections.
Carpet on the floor is a must to lower the reflections (standing waves) between the floor and the ceiling. Thicker curtains will help to lower the reflections of the windows. Glass covered photos and such stiff furniture should be avoided.
This article is not intended to give recommendations how to make a room tuning, lots but lots of information may be found on internet. But it is just to emphasize the importance of room acoustics.
6- Precise Focus and Loudspeaker Placement; this is also another known but the least considered part of Hi-End. It is critically important to locate both speakers at the exactly same distance to achieve precise focus. Distances should be very carefully measured and both of the speakers should be placed exactly to the same distance through listener.
OK but why such important!
Sound signals are distributed in waves as explained in section five. The people who tried the settings in section five will realize that, the peaks of frequencies vary in conjunction with the distance from the speakers. Especially the treble frequencies will vary a lot by only one centimetres of a change. In such cases, if one speaker is just one cm closer to the listener, some frequencies will be heard a lot from one speaker but will not be heard from the other speaker. If the upper harmonics of the human sound consist of such upper frequencies, (it is!) this is obvious that the sound will move from the middle to left or to right. Moreover, within that case, some frequencies will be collided in full phase and will be exaggerated, some others will be collided by inverted phase so are destroyed.
This is the exactly the same effect of loosing bass when connecting one speaker out of phase.
7- Mechanical Vibration of Electronic Units; Quite a lot of vibration absorption feet and platform kinds exist in the market. They are to be placed under the electronics/speakers. Such materials have two intentions;
a- To eliminate the external vibration coming through the unit
b- To eliminate the vibration of the unit itself (CD driver motor, speaker cone vibrations etc)
Most popular ones are the cones (spikes). I believe the proper usage of spikes is not known very well. Rather than being a vibration absorber, spike is a kind of transmission material that transmits vibration from one point through the other point. In other means, vibration is condensed to one point and mechanically carried to other platform by the spike but not eliminated. If the connection surface is stiff (for instance marble, granite, etc) such vibrations are passed to that surface. Underneath of such a stiff platforms (marble, MDF, glass, granite) must be covered by an elastically material such as cork, mouse pad, neoprene rubber or similar.
The vibration can not pass from a stiff platform to an elastically platform and will be transposed to heat between.
Direction of the cone is also critically important. The direction should be in conjunction with the intention of vibration transmission.
May be the last thing about the cone is the cone should be in touch with the chassis of the component directly. If any kind of rubber, double sided band, blue tack or such an elastic material is put between cone and the unit that material will try to transpose the vibration and the cone will not work.
8- Marble Under the Loudspeakers: A marble platform under the speakers eliminate most of the unwanted resonances of the speaker. The thickness of the marble should be at least 3 cm and the size should be at least 10 centimetres bigger then the edges. Underneath of the marble has to be covered by an elastic material such as cork, mouse pad, neoprene etc.
How does it effect the sound is, you have more powerful but more clear and tight bass, relaxation at the mid and top frequencies.
The speaker has to be connected to the platform via a cone, not by an elastically feet. The sharp end of the cone has to direct the marble but not to the loudspeaker.
9- Grounding the Metals for Static Electricity; especially in wet weather and in fully carpeted listening environments, static electric become an issue. The carpet is charged with static electric which can be passed through the electronic equipments via the rack and/or via human touch. Static electricity on the carpet is such powerful that when checked in the morning before somebody walks on it, can be clearly seen by simple tools sold in Radio Shack
In order to eliminate the effect, the loudspeaker stands and the equipment racks should be connected to earth by a thin wire. Moreover, the loudspeaker cables and interconnects should be lifted away from the floor due to the same effect.
What benefits you may expect from this tweak is I don’t know why but less blurry and more tide lower bass.
10- Loudspeaker Distance from the Front Wall; Loudspeaker producers generally recommend the distance of the speaker by the front wall (the wall behind the speakers). Generally speaking, the speaker should be located as far as possible from the front wall. (Side walls as well) If they are so close to the wall, bass standing waves will be reinforced (explained in article five) and mid/treble band will be compressed due to excessive bass energy.
Some audiophiles find the desired bass volume by placing them closer to front wall which is not correct. One thing should be considered that such bass increase is not due to the original sound but it is the consequence by the room response called coloration.
11- Auto former / Transformer Passive Line Stages; The new developed technologies in hi-end industry made the pre-amplifiers questionable.
Before end, the reason of a preamplifier was stipulated in four basics;
a- To connect more then one unit together
b- Recording to tape from some sources
c- Low volume output and inverted polarity signal of turntables (as the only source component)
d- Bass, treble adjustment requirements
Nowadays, CD, SACD units can provide 5-8 Volts of outputs which are more than enough for the power amplifiers. Audiophiles are not interested in tone adjustments but focused on simplicity anymore. Dedicated phono stages are in common usage, hence, the majority of the requirements are not valid anymore.
The main and the only basic job of a modern pre-amplifier is to lower the volume level, not step it up !!
Just try to imagine a pure signal from a CD, or DAC through the power amplifier, then cut this link, add four plugs, four female plugs, a pair of interconnects, lots of resistors, capacitors, tubes, transistors and all that stuff in the link. How can you keep the signal purity and can you make something better then its original !
An active line stage demolishes the neutrality and the purity of the original sound. Such a corruption may not be so evident in most of the lower resolution systems or disregarded by some people on purposely. Every active line stage has its own tonality and coloration. As a matter of fact, audiophiles generally use line stages to balance their tonality problems in systems. For instance, a tube line stage is used to calm down a firm sounding solid state power amplifier or a treble rich line stage is used to compensate the treble poor power amplifier and vice versa. If this is the case in a system, fully natural line stage and lack of coloration will not be regarded by the audiophile.
Following me, the consideration should be to change the power amplifier till finding the desired sound rather then playing with pre-amplifier. In other words, to deal with the original problem rather then trying to mask the problem.
It is almost in consensus that using a very simple volume pot adds so much neutrality and purity to sound. But in such cases, some other problems appear. A volume pot which is either a potentiometer or a stepped alternator works with the resistance principals. Every volume step adds different resistive path to signal, thus lowers the volume. Due to the complexity of the music signal ( 20 Hz-20 kHz), such a resistive load will act like a barrier for different frequencies. For instance when turning down the volume level, the treble is lowered and the bass is condensed or when you increase the volume, mids are excessive or vice versa. Not to forget to mention is the lack of dynamic range as well. A line stage eliminates these problems.
Due to these facts, volume control pots or analogue volume controlled CDs can not be used stand alone as line stages
By the new technology, new auto former and transformer passive line stages are developed for volume control.
Such units do not work with resistance principals and do not add resistance to the signal path. The only resistance of such amps is approximately 200 Ohms due to the cable in windings.
Transformer passive line stages consist of two transformers, one for the left channel, and one for the right. They have one primary winding and multiple (12-24 steps) of secondary windings. Their principal is to lover the volume by changing the volts, rather then adding resistance. Up to my knowledge, there are only three producers of such line stages. I used two of them. Both of them are providing extra ordinary natural, calm and undistorted sounds.
I heavily modified the Antique Sound Lab myself which is very good product and quite cheap too, (don’t underestimate its price) but Audio Consulting’s Silver Rock made of pure silver is something else.
It should be also mentioned that such a passive line stages can not be suitable for every system. In such a case, input impedance of power amp should be driven directly by the output stage of DAC or CD player. Input impedance of the power amp should be as small as possible. The best way to learn this case is to write the impedance values to producer and request assistance prior to purchasing.
12- Good Tubes (NOS Tubes); is it logical to pay 100? to and old tube while the new one costs 10 ? I believe it is. A good tube can change the characteristics of a tube electronic as if you replaced the entire unit. Nos tubes are not easy to find, quite expensive but worthwhile to use. Especially the upper frequency hiss is quite lower with Nos tubes.
13- Very Easy Polarity Finding Method; Generally speaking, European (German) standard AC plugs do not have the signal direction. US, UK, Swiss AC plugs have one way to connect to AC, so + and – phases can not. So in such cases, it is not easy to find out the correct polarity.
Electronic components can work properly regardless of the polarity. Our televisions, refrigerators, bulbs, computers everything. Why the AC polarity is quite important in Hi-Fi !
Electricity arrives from (+) passes the electronic circuit and departs from (-) Generally the mains current arrives in the power supply of the unit first then reduced to desired voltage by of the electronic circuits. At this case, mains is automatically filtered by the power supply section. The transformer of the power supply section behaves like isolation transformer, input and output currents are physically separated. If the polarity is not correct, the mains will arrive to system directly from the back door and will carry all the pollution like RFI/EMI into the unit. Due to the fact, it is important to find out the correct polarity.
Most of the electronic’ polarity is similar. If the unit has detachable power cord and IEC kind of input, the right hole should be the (+) mains when do you look at the plug front the front face (as seen below)
Another simple method is to check the mains fuses. If the unit is equipped with an exterior protection fuse, release the fuse and check it by an electricity check pen while the unit was connected to mains. It should be (+) signal. If not, reverse the AC plug from the wall
14- Listening Volume Level; It is for sure nobody’s business to tell you that what the correct listening volume setting is. Some audiophiles like very low listening level, some turn on the volume till the windows are broken.
If the outcome is to achieve the ambiance of the recorded venue, volume level should be adjusted accordingly but not more or not less. This case is applicable to acoustic instruments only but not to electronic music, jazz or disco etc.
What ever the listened record is, correct volume setting should be the one which does not enlarge or shrink the original instrument. Higher volumes may For instance a guitar should be played with the original volume of a guitar by correct volume setting. If volume level is increased, the body of the guitar will became bigger in obsolete terms, on the other hands, full body of a Mormon chorus will not be so realistic at low volumes
15- Warming Up the Speakers and Cables Before Critical Listening; Apart from the theory that “Solid state electronics provide their best sound for a few minutes till the transistors became warm.” every single audio equipment needs a warm up time. This time is at least 1/2 hour or even 1 hour in spite the manufacturers recommend less. Up to my knowledge, the reason behind this is the specifications of the resistors, capacitors, tubes and other stuff vary if they are cold or warm. Manufacturers make final settings when the units are warm, otherwise they would play perfect for the first half an hour and worse after warmed up.
That principal is applied by every audiophile for the electronics but not always for the speakers and the cables.
Speakers are quite important since their passive components should be warmed up such as crossover resistors. Their voice coils should be warmed up as well. The cables are also important. Warm up term may not eligible for the cables but the cables should be run for sometime till their dielectrics are charged.
As a result, the warming up time should be completed by playing (may not be listening) the entire system.
16- Proper Loudspeaker Selection for Listening Room; Loudspeaker should be selected in conjunction with the listening room dimensions. Unfortunately the general tendency in audiophiles particularly in US is “the bigger is better”
It is like some new starting skiers that choose the best ski equipments prior to learning and facing with so many problems afterwards.
Big loudspeakers are difficult to position, difficult to drive, affected more from the room boundaries. If the speaker is bigger for the room, excessive bass energy will diminish rest of the sounds. The bigger speaker means bigger problems. Driving big speakers requires challenge, experience, sources, time and money.
17- PS Audio Power Plant; Principally I avoid giving specific brands in my non commercial web site. But PS Audio Power Plant is such a special product that similar components do not comparable with. It is a kind of power regenerator powered by electricity. P300 actually regenerates new AC for the audio gear. This regenerated AC is of much better quality than filtered AC because of the stabile voltage and near perfect AC waveform. It also removes 70 dB of EMI and RFI noise from the AC line!
Not all friends are agreed with me but according to me, it is very special equipment that lifts up the entire system to a higher level.
What would you expect from it is much relaxed sound, more layered deep and wide soundstage, crystalline treble and more inner details. Improvements are immediately apparent. Take care to use with power hungry amplifiers. (I am not sure about this currently Note: 2005)
18- CD Surface Treatments; There is several kinds of CD surface treatments in the market. They shine the surface of CD, thus laser picks up more information. What can be expected from a surface treatment is the high frequencies are cleaner and more extended. The easiest and the cheapest method of CD surface treatment is the one that used by pipe lovers .That is the human oil on the skin of face.
I apologize for that ugly tweak but our systems are personal and private anyway don’t they. Human oil has the perfect thin viscosity and can be absorbed by CD surface very easily and effectively. Listen your CD first, smear the CD throughout your forehead and spread the oil with your finger and listen it again.
Don’t forget to spread the oil by your finger every time prior to listen that CD.
19- Objective of the Third Dimension ; The objective of a stereo system is to achieve 3.rd dimension via two channels. All the hi-end or hi-fi equipments have own character, timbre and tonality. For instance a titanium tweeter will have different tonality then a silk dome tweeter. Two different brands of loudspeakers will have different tonalities as if they use the same drive units. The tonality of high end equipment mostly depends on the listening preferences of the designer. We will most probably not like if hear different tonalities from our own equipments even though the other system sounds much better. This case is so often faced; most of the audiophiles don’t like the sound of somebody else’s system despite it is a better system. This case is also evident when buying or testing new equipment at homes. We sometimes test better equipment at home but feel something is still missing compared to our own equipment.
I remember very well, when Sony introduced the first 20 Bits CD player, most of the people found the sound harsh, edgy and coloured. People used to listen dark sounding CD players up to that time and hearing more inner details disturbed them.
I also remember very well that when I modified my old B&W 801 Matrix II monitor speakers and cancelled their protection units, the new sound had disturbed me a lot. I was such unhappy by the new sound and could not have listened at my system for several days. At that time, the manufacturer expressed that “the protection units were needed due to the speakers were designed mainly for recording studios”. They also told to me that the new sound must be clearly better due to the crossover resistance that affects especially the lower mid and upper bass was lowered fairly. After several days of listening them, the sound became better and better. Eventually the sound was surprisingly perfect after few weeks. Actually the sound was the same but perception was changing. (My brain reference was changing)
If this is the often case, how do we distinguish the better unit by listening! There are several ways of it but for me the main method is third dimension capability. This is not the only case for sure but generally speaking, if two units are compared, the better one is the one delivers bigger soundstage, more dept and more height.
This is also the theory of Peter Quodrup from Audio Note UK and I am hundred percent agreed with him.
The distortion of an electronic device is does not effect the tonality of the equipment but mainly effects the inner details. Soundstage dept and height are such hidden factors in inner details that they will be affected first. If the unit provide lower distortion, more precise soundstage, especially more dept will be provided.
20- The Least Powerful Ring of a Chain; Hi-Fi is a kind of chain. Strength of a chain depends on the least powerful ring. Assume a water hose consists of variety of wideness. Derived water capacity will be in accordance with the thinner part.
A system should consist of similar level of equipments. If you add the best CD transport to a standard level of system, there will be some changes but not as expected. Also a poor digital cable will compress the entire sound quality of a very good system.
A long term plan should be prepared before setting up a system and the pieces should be purchased in time. Hurried purchases may come as replacement expense within one or two years.
21- Don’t Immediately Judge a Unit, Give a Chance; Every system can sound well in time. System synergy is a kind of time dependent factor that sometimes takes months, even years. Sometimes we make quick decisions and quick prejudices for good products and immediately make unfair observations. According to me, the main element of the hi-end chain is the loudspeaker. If tonality and characteristics of the speaker is generally fine, or if the overall tonality of the entire system is generally fine, the system can be carried up for several further steps by playing with cables, tweaks, locations, tubes etc.
22- Critical Adjustments Should be Done by Listening Symphonic Music or Chorus Music; Once we decided about the main components of our system, we play with cables, tubes, tweaks and other accessories till finding the desired tonality. Adjusting the tonal balance of a system by listening single instruments or jazz trios may mislead us.
Upper mid and the treble bands of a sound is easily disappeared if somebody is far away from the original signal. This is the case, if we listen at a live concert or listen at a hi-end system. If this is the case, such instruments like saxophone, guitar, violin, even a human voice are darker and distant if we listen at a very good live record. Whenever we increase mid/treble band of the system by tweaks, such instruments became more open, detailed and dynamic. But one thing should be in mind that we may add a subtle amount of coloration to sound unconsciously. If a system is trimmed by listening small trios or single instruments, singe voices, this risk is really big. Such a system may not play a classical music performed by a big orchestra. If such symphonic music is listened, the system may reveal harshness and brightness.
It is often said that somebody’s system plays well in classics but sounds quite dark in jazz, or somebody else’s system is quite revealing in jazz but very bright and glazing at classical music. I believe this is the main reason of those phenomena
END
Hi-End is such a passion that so many opportunist firms and persons are added every year in spite hi-end community is not growing enough. Prices are multiplied by 3, 5, 10s every year. Every producer pretends to be one of the best in the world or at least within particular price level. Manufacturers issue review reports prepared by some ones!
No testing equipments in today’s technology can prove that their claims are correct or no testing equipments can invalidate that their claims are wrong. In no way equipment can compare two units each other and prove that one is better sounding then the other. Pretended best in the world equipments/cables often suck in blind testing. If this is the case, it is easy to claim to be the best in the world due to nobody can prove the opposite.
The price of valuable equipment can fall down to 1/3 of the purchasing price within few years by the additions of MK-II’s, MK-III’s, Special Editions, and Signature Versions
While the best speaker in the world was sold by 7.000 ? Twenty years ago, the best speaker nowadays is more then 200.000? A poor line stage which is used to lower the volume is sold out by 40.000.?
Hi-End technology does not grow up for years. Most of the hi-end producers are very small family entrepreneurs that targeting very rich few niche people. They don’t have proper research and development laboratories. Design and esthetical properties are the priorities.
I have the strong impression that Hi-End is digging its own grave with that pricing policy. We will see what will happen to hi-end after 30 years.
It is a deep less hole. My humble recommendations for the just starters is that go with second hand market products and go by reasonable priced equipments to minimize the losses of years. Never look for the perfect sound which is not exist in any money. Keep in mind that a 300.000? Worth amplifier may be % 2-3 better then a 5.000? Worth of his small brother.
Best regards with lots of music..
Ozhan Atalay
About the Author
Ozhan Atalay
Predident
http://www.nonamehifi.com
January 2004 – Issued in December 2003, February 2004, April 2004 issues of Andante – Classical Music Magazine
January 2004
Content of this article may be used only by referring to www.nonamehifi.com Copyright NonameHifi
Sony Card Chase
Volusia County public records for Sept. 29, 2010
COUNTY JAIL DOCKET (The following people were booked into the Volusia County Branch Jail on felony charges yet to be proven in court.): Maritza Esther Myers, 33, Daytona Beach, failure to appear; Tarah Michelle Minchew, 26, Daytona Beach, uttering…
Boner & Chase Play Halo3 ODST Online! (Part 1!)
Sony Hx1
cheap sony cybershot cameras – best price sony dsc-wx1
The cybershot dsc-wx1 camera is one of the best featured camaras on the market and for good reason. You can purchase this great camera for just $329 today but before you do check out just one of the great features for the Sony dsc-wx1, Sweep Panorama.
If you want a full review of the Sony cybershot dsc-wx1 then click here.
Ordinary cameras seldom capture the full impact of breathtaking landscapes, city scenes and tall buildings. Even if you’ve got a wide angle lens, it’s hard to squeeze everything into the frame and do the scene justice.
To pack more into the picture, photographers traditionally use the trick of shooting several frames, shifting the camera’s position to capture different parts of the scene. These shots are combined to create one extra-large image. However it’s a fiddly manual process that demands skill and patience to stitch frames together without obvious joins.
Now there’s a fun, easy way to create seamless, ultra-wide pictures with a huge field of view of up to 224 degrees. Even at the lowest horizontal panoramic setting you’ll get a field of view of 108 degrees: that’s equivalent to a wide angle lens with a focal length of just 14mm.
Sweep Panorama takes the hard work out of creating fabulous panoramic shots. And best of all, you don’t need a PC or special software: everything’s done for you inside the camera.
Exclusive to Sony, Sweep Panorama is featured on the Cyber-shot™ WX1, TX1 and HX1. They’re the world’s first compact cameras that automatically capture and combine a high-speed burst of full-resolution images.
Just press the shutter button and sweep the camera from left to right across your scene. It also works vertically, letting you sweep the camera up and down to capture tall buildings in a single, dramatic image. The ultra-fast EXMOR CMOS sensor inside the camera shoots a rapid burst of frames at a speed that many sophisticated SLR cameras can’t match. Frames are then stitched together automatically inside the camera: the whole process takes just three seconds.
Standard Wide mode captures dramatic panoramic shots with detail-packed 4912 x 1080 pixel resolution (40:9 ratio). If you want an even bigger field of view, choose Ultra-wide mode and capture amazing 60:9 images with 7152 x 1080 pixels. You can also hold the camera vertically (in portrait position) and shoot extra-tall panoramas in standard (16:9) or ultra-wide (32:9) modes.
For more information about the Sony Cybershot DSC-WX1 click here
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Ordinary cameras seldom capture the full impact of breathtaking landscapes, city scenes and tall buildings. Even if you’ve got a wide angle lens, it’s hard to squeeze everything into the frame and do the scene justice.
To pack more into the picture, photographers traditionally use the trick of shooting several frames, shifting the camera’s position to capture different parts of the scene. These shots are combined to create one extra-large image. However it’s a fiddly manual process that demands skill and patience to stitch frames together without obvious joins.
Now there’s a fun, easy way to create seamless, ultra-wide pictures with a huge field of view of up to 224 degrees. Even at the lowest horizontal panoramic setting you’ll get a field of view of 108 degrees: that’s equivalent to a wide angle lens with a focal length of just 14mm.
Sweep Panorama takes the hard work out of creating fabulous panoramic shots. And best of all, you don’t need a PC or special software: everything’s done for you inside the camera.
Exclusive to Sony, Sweep Panorama is featured on the Cyber-shot™ WX1, TX1 and HX1. They’re the world’s first compact cameras that automatically capture and combine a high-speed burst of full-resolution images.
Just press the shutter button and sweep the camera from left to right across your scene. It also works vertically, letting you sweep the camera up and down to capture tall buildings in a single, dramatic image. The ultra-fast EXMOR CMOS sensor inside the camera shoots a rapid burst of frames at a speed that many sophisticated SLR cameras can’t match. Frames are then stitched together automatically inside the camera: the whole process takes just three seconds.
Standard Wide mode captures dramatic panoramic shots with detail-packed 4912 x 1080 pixel resolution (40:9 ratio). If you want an even bigger field of view, choose Ultra-wide mode and capture amazing 60:9 images with 7152 x 1080 pixels. You can also hold the camera vertically (in portrait position) and shoot extra-tall panoramas in standard (16:9) or ultra-wide (32:9) modes.
About the Author
My name is Christine and I live in Cambodia. I love to play online bingo, writing and photgraphy.
I also have a great eBook and eProduct blog. eBooks on hundreds of subjects
Sony Wireless Keyboard
sony bravia tv as monitor?
I have a Sony bravia TV and I want to know if I can hook a hard drive up to it ? I know I can hook up a laptop to it but what I really want to do is buy a new hard drive and wireless keyboard and use the TV as my monitor. is that possible?
thanks candie, thats exactly what i meant.
I use a Sony Bravia as my computer monitor, and it works perfectly. Check it out: http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f347/armchairaviator/computer/IMG_0880c.jpg
It’s connected to my computer using a DVI-to-HDMI cable. (My computer has a DVI port). As you can see, the image is razor sharp, displaying 1920×1080 resolution using the HDMI digital connection.
So just make sure the new computer you are buying has either a DVI or HDMI port, and you are good to go.
The wireless keyboard I’m using with my setup is the Logitech DiNovo Edge. It has a built-in touchpad so I don’t need a separate mouse.
Sony Camcorder Hdr-cx550v
Where can I get my hands on the Panasonic HDC-TM700k and Sony HDR-CX550V?
I live in Dayton, Ohio and I’m looking at buying either the Panasonic HDC-TM700k or Sony HDR-CX550V camcorder. I want to get my hands on them to check them out before I buy one of them online but I can’t find a store that carries them. I’ve looked at Walmarts, Best Buys, H.H. Gregs, Targets, Sears…all with no luck. In fact they haven’t even had anything nearly that high end. So I’m just wondering what other stores might carry them, even local, non-chain stores would work. price doesn’t matter because I just want to be able to look at them. I’ll go to Columbus, Beavercreek, maybe even Cincinnati. I’m just looking to drive 1.5 hrs or less to take a look at these camcorders. Thanks for any and all help.
Whatever your purposes in converting an AVCHD camcorder video, you can get the method here, so just know how to do it.
you can google Aunsoft Sony Camcorder Column to get it.
